Successful cooking is largely a matter of knowing when to stick with tradition and when to innovate. At Taste of Sensu, tomato salsa adds a kiss of acidity to unorthodox lobster-tail taco. Crisp toast supports pulverized shrimp and ruby-red spicy tuna jam, time-tested sushi ingredients configured in an adventurous fashion. Chefs lace sushi rolls with attention-grabbing ingredients and textures; the Cabo Roll, for instance, combines shrimp tempura and tuna with seared beef, pickled jalapeño, and chipotle mayonnaise, and the spicy tuna roll gets its crunch from hearts of romaine lettuce. Toasting glasses in the dining room brim with sparkling sake, wines fermented on the West coast, and fruity cocktails like the air tanks of an amateur scuba diver.