From the unassuming shopping-center storefront Rocco’s Italian Restaurant has called home for more than 25 years, you might not guess that what lies inside is, according to Nathaniel Glen of the Gazette, an “old-school Italian-American eatery” that “distinguishes itself as one of the good ones.” Chef Robert Tust and his wife, Laurie, have created the welcoming, casual environs of a traditional Italian restaurant in every detail, from the checkered tablecloths to the menu of freshly composed sauces and rotating specials. Bites brim with hearty flavor in house specialties such as the savory cannoli, which tucks sausage or meatballs into golden-baked dough, and brick-oven pizzas topped with ingredients such as sundried tomatoes and garlic pesto and flanked by teams of miniature masons to guard against falling bricks.