Furnished with stately, wood décor and red velvet curtains, Rein puts a regal twist on contemporary American cuisine via its appetizers and entrees. Dining-room architect and designer Robert DiLeonoardi sets the sophisticated scene for a stage bill of well-seasoned stars, starting with Georges Bank sautéed scallops ($17), dressed with Spanish mangaliza ham in a cauliflower vichyssoise and orange-leek confit. Entrees evoke images of men sipping cognac from curvy snifters. Graze with grace on plates of pepper-crusted, Montana-raised rib eyes ($48) or juniper-marinated venison ($38). Braised red cabbage, stuffed lady apples, and star anise complement each venison cut, alongside hot flushes of large, duck-fat-fried fries or smack-down potatoes ($6 each). Lounge postmeal with a fireside digestif, accompanied by a friend, loved one, or FDR's ghost.