Aromatic herbs and spices, such as ginger, garlic, and saffron, are the foundation of Indian cuisine. Chef Mathew of Amla roasts and grinds these and other spices every day to season a South Indian menu of dishes such as yogurt-marinated basil chicken, lamb boti kebabs, and seasonal achari mushrooms, which simmer in a mélange of turmeric, coriander, and cumin. No matter what they order, diners are likely to find it accompanied by an unusual amuse-bouche: a preparation of amalaki, the Indian gooseberry plant from which the restaurant takes its name. Depending on the season, Chef Mathew may incorporate the flowers, fruit, leaves, or root into a complimentary treat, inspired by the plant’s many uses in Ayurvedic herbology. Born in Mumbai, the chef studied for more than a decade in high-end kitchens in India before arriving at Amla’s brick-walled, white-tableclothed storefront, where he’ll gladly take requests to make dishes extra spicy for a chili lover or extra-salty for a chili lover’s arch nemesis.