Franco Barrio, the former chef at Boqueria, describes Caliu’s tapas as “straightforward” and “classic” in New York Magazine. It’s hard to disagree with his assessment when confronted with such small-plate staples as aged Serrano ham and papas bravas. Still, it would be a mistake to confuse classic with predictable. The restaurant’s market menu features daily specials that include diver scallops with butternut squash and a ceviche with the fish of the day. Live guitarist Benji Kaplan plucks out jazz and Brazilian tunes on his guitar, pausing every now and then to warm his picking hand over a plate of spicy pork sausage.