Seamus Mullen’s recreations of Spanish cuisine are so convincing that it’s hard to believe he grew up on a farm in Vermont. Mullen’s passion for the food of Spain began during his tenure at Boqueria Flatiron, where he was both co-founder and executive chef. His experimentation with tapas soon blossomed into a full-blown romance with regional Spanish cuisine. While pursuing his interest abroad, Mullen grew particularly fond of Spain’s sidrerias, cider houses where simple meals are crafted from quality ingredients. He returned home to open Tertulia as an homage to these establishments, and he has succeeded in creating a restaurant that would feel every bit at home amongst the foothills of Asturias as it does in New York’s West Village. No detail has been overlooked, from the archways cut into weathered brick walls to the wooden barrels of cider and displays of wine and aged cheeses. The artistry of Tertulia’s interior extends to the food itself. Pig cheek with quail egg and pepper is only one of many dishes that Mullen serves atop the hand-carved wooden platters that he collected during his travels. The back of the dining room faces an open kitchen, where he and his fellow chefs carve thin slices of jamón Ibérico and masterfully herd bulls away from their delicate glassware.