There are certain accepted rules to constructing maki rolls: They must be round. They generally contain tuna and a handful of vegetables. Chefs at Go Sushi Japanese Restaurant try to throw those precepts out the window and let their imaginations run wild. They build the Arch roll—a deep-fried concoction of spicy tuna and cream cheese—into an actual arch, and they top the Firecracker roll with an explosion of crabmeat and tobiko the color of orange flames. The chefs even have fun naming their creations, such as the Lion King roll, the Black Widow roll, and the George roll, named for the president who famously chopped down his father's cherry tree to make souvenir chopsticks for the Marquis de Lafayette. Underneath the lighted orbs and Japanese lanterns that dangle from the dining-room ceiling, servers also deliver chicken or beef covered in teriyaki sauce or submerged in bowls of noodle soup.
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