398 West offers fine dining made finer by its kosher certification, with a kashrut-abiding menu prepared with as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. Beneath high ceilings that dangle glowing pendant lamps like futuristic earrings, candlelit tables with crisp white linens make fine backdrops for selections from 398 West's sushi bar. Punch up your table with a vibrant avocado maki ($7), a spicy-tuna roll ($10), or the Tex-Mex roll ($16) with fresh tuna sashimi, diced tomatoes, and avocado chunks, tossed in dynamite sauce and served over California rolls. After once again asserting dominance over sea creatures—this time without the use of a flamethrower—dig into 398 West's dinner menu. First courses include Atlantic salmon sliders ($12), house-cured spiced beef jerky served warm ($16), and chicken-liver pâté ($12). Main dishes include braised lamb shanks ($38) with potatoes, squash, beans, and greens, and a 30-day aged 16 oz. rib steak ($39) with market vegetables and hand-cut fries. Before returning your fierce appetite to its cage in the basement, treat it to 398 West's brownie dessert ($12).