A server tours the room, his skewer held high until he stops at a table to carve slices of picanha nobre—top sirloin grilled with rock salt and olive oil—onto plates. Pampas Grille borrows Brazil's churrasco-style meal, serving meat and seafood just as it comes off the fire. Diners take repeat trips to the side bar to complement their meats with salads and hot and cold sides. The eatery is trimmed in warm wood and features horseshoe-booth seating. Near the bar, wide and tall windows can be flung open to let in fresh air or allow a giant to enter without stooping.