Like waking a hibernating bear, waking a dormant stomach causes violent growls that can only be silenced by plates of catfish and 20 minutes of gentle patting. Ward off vicious appetites with today’s Groupon: for $10, you get $20 worth of comfort fare at Niecies Restaurant. This Groupon is valid at both the Troost Avenue and Raytown locations.
For 25 years, kitchen wunderkinds at Niecies Restaurant have been comforting grumbling stomachs with heaping helpings of southern fare crafted from time-tested family recipes. The menu of classic homestyle dinners includes southern fried chicken ($4.99) and chicken-fried steak that’s as satisfying as a good cry on your boss’s shoulder ($7.99). Barbecue brisket ($11.99) slowly soaks in sweet sauce before enlisting a choice of two side dishes, such as navy beans or coleslaw, to colonize empty plate-space. From 5:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. seven days a week, early birds can snub their noses at worms in favor of biscuits and gravy ($4.49), and luncheoners can grab a stool at the counter and nuzzle velvety slabs of meatloaf and mashed potatoes ($7.99). Morsels of peach cobbler ($3.69) and sweet-potato pie ($3.29) wait in the wings, ready to flood mouths with decadence.
Denise Ward grew up nourished by soul food that her mother skillfully prepared. After learning to prepare the same recipes herself, she dreamed of sharing them with other people. That’s why she and her husband, Perry, opened a soul food café in 1985, naming it Niecies Restaurant. In 2006, they expanded to a second location.
In the early hours, cooks grill pork chops for breakfast sandwiches and prepare signature plates such as the Sunrise Breakfast, which The Pitch asserts, “may be the best way to start any morning.” Later in the day, plates of fried catfish and barbecue brisket share table space with bowls of beef stew more comforting to stomachs than teddy bears eaten whole. Homespun desserts such as peach cobbler sweeten palates.
The food gets served in a comfy diner-style setting. Thickly padded booths line two long rows of front windows, and diner stools prop up guests at the counter—in case they want to reenact scenes from their favorite road-trip movie, such as Ben-Hur. Floral wallpaper hangs cozily over wood-trim wainscoting, and plates of pancakes can be seen on the shelf between the kitchen and the dining area for that fleeting instant before servers whisk them off to tables.