Khyber Indian Fusion's Goa-born chef swirls the flavors of various savory Indian dishes together into a single menu. A charcoal-fueled oven imparts a hint of its smokiness and all of its long-winded stories to the chicken malai kebab, a roasted poultry dish marinated in almond, fresh cream, and signature herbs ($11.99). Golden orbs of fried veggie dumplings languor in a mild manchurian sauce ($10.49), and curry leaves and coconut batter freshwater shellfish in a Goan-style curry ($15.99). The Mumtaaz goat biryani simmers cubes of its titular meat over a tame fire with basmati rice and indian herbs ($14.49) for a slow-cooked dish that leaves tongues as happy as a clown at a makeup counter.
Executive chef Mohan, who has commanded Lovash Restaurant’s kitchen for 12 years and been in in the restaurant business for 30 years, infuses an equal blend of color and flavor into his Indian recipes. He tosses chicken into bright-red sun-dried-tomato sauce, marinates tender lamb in coconut milk, and sprinkles spices across wilted spinach and yellow cheese cubes. The colorful dishes mimic the stained-glass chandeliers that hang overhead to illuminate portraits hanging from the exposed-brick walls. The BYOB eatery also has a private dining room to host family gatherings and laid-back jury deliberations.
"Pretty damn incredible"—the first words that Philadelphia Weekly's Brian Freedman chose to sum up the cuisine at Tashan. Philadelphia magazine's Trey Popp was also wowed by the restaurant's unique culinary balancing act, stating that the food was " …a potential minefield, but executive chef Sylva Senat dances through it without dropping much more than a teaspoon’s worth of his 51-spice arsenal." The Haitian-born chef—who was a James Beard Award semi-finalist in 2012 and 2013 and who is beloved by area food critics and his mother—certainly does his best to help Tashan redefine Philadelphia's Indian food scene.
Drawing from extensive culinary experience—time spent in the kitchens of Trump Hotel Central Park and Buddakan—and traditional Indian cooking methods, chef Senat melds classically Indian flavors with culinary styles from around the globe. His small-plates-focused menus feature inventive takes on familiar dishes, such as organic chicken-vindaloo sausage, tandoori free-range butter chicken, and masala-dusted lobster. The food pairs well with cocktails that also incorporate Indian spices and fruits.
Though chef Senat's cuisine is the star, Tashan's decor has also garnered praise. Designed by New York-based architect and interior designer Winka Dubbeldam, the dining room surrounds visitors with tables made from hand-carved wood, as well as with statues and furnishings from India, Spain, and Mexico. Ebony wood takes on a subtle dark glow, and polished steel accents reflect the low, sensual lighting. The result is a physical space that, according to Brian Freedman, takes on an air of “crepuscular sexiness."
The masala maestros at Cafe Spice Express prepare an expansive and omnivorous menu of upscale Indian takeout. Rumbly tummies can be hushed by arsenal of appetizers, including a trio of potato-packed samosas ($4), boneless chili chicken ($7.50), and the yogurt-coated salmon of saloni machi ($8). The lamb madras marries the sweetness of coconut and tanginess of mustard ($13), and the shrimp vindaloo dips tiger prawns in a hot-and-spicy sauce ($14). Crop-based eats from the vegetarian menu include bhindi masala, a sautéed okra dish with julienned ginger and cumin ($9.95), and malai kofta, featuring vegetable dumplings steeped in cashew-almond gravy ($10.50) until as rich and tender as hug from Bill Gates.
Tiffin infuses drab dishes with a plethora of Indian spices imported straight from the subcontinent itself by peripatetic purveyors. Shrimp and chicken absorb flavors of orange and chile de arbol after a bathing in the mango-chile marinade ($10), and curry finds its savory soul mate in the complementing haldi turmeric powder ($5.59). Elaichi whole green cardamom ($6.59), a staple of Indian desserts, leaves its native India, bidding a tearful farewell to its ginger family in search of a starring role in pungent dishes. Customers can pick up dish dustings or have them delivered ($25 minimum) to their home, office, or underground solarium for no additional delivery charge.