In 2003, chef Shing Chung and his wife Doris became grandparents, and they decided that it was time to pass the torch. So after 20 years of running Lee How Fook, they handed over the keys to their daughter Sieu and her husband. With the help of the eatery’s chefs, the duo still works to live up to the eatery’s name, which translates roughly to “good food for the mouth.” Busy members of the family cruise beneath almond-hued walls, which are lined with colorful illustrations of bud-strewn trees. Their limbs bend as if reaching for steaming chicken and beef morsels in sweet and spicy sauces or platters of peking duck or lobster. A BYOB policy allows for pairing with the diverse Cantonese menu and fuels chatter about the fact that nobody has ever seen the waiter in the same place as Superman.