Master beersmith Peter Catizone discovered his passion for brewing while making homebrewed batches of beer in the 1980s. Eventually, he developed his hobby into a craft and his do-it-yourself recipes into a microbrew powerhouse with a mantel full of awards. Today at Faultline Brewing Company?s lively taphouse, the staff pours samples from a smorgasbord of more than 20 beers, ranging from the clear, clean taste of a Rhineland-style k?lsch to the malty richness of an inky-black irish stout. Offerings from the lunch and dinner bills of fare complement the local brews with Louisiana-style seafood gumbo,Thai inspired Salmon Shoo-Shee, and generously portioned Angus beef burgers. On Friday and Saturday nights, live musicians serenade guests as they enjoy beer flights and frosty pints on the open-air patio or in the lounge.
This microbrewery makes seven ales, which are all that flow from the pub’s taps. The brewmeisters focus on purity: all of their beer is made with just water, malt, hops, and wheat. Chefs, meanwhile, prepare upscale pub grub that functions as pairing options for every beer. They suggest you order an Alpine Gold blonde ale alongside the blackened catfish; if you’re opting for the baby back ribs, the oatmeal stout is the way to go.
While most 21-year-olds are content to just sit in a bar and drink beer, Mike Johannsen was a bit more active about his newly legal status. As soon as he came of age, he started brewing in his dorm room at CalPoly San Luis Obispo. Over the years, he has explored almost every angle of the business, from equipment maintenance to cellaring, packaging, and quality assurance. In 2013, he founded Schubros Brewery alongside Ian Schuster, a London Business School grad and craft beer aficionado.
In the short time that Schubros has been operational, they have already done a lot to distinguish themselves from other breweries. For starters, all their brews are organic: varietals include Diablo Sunrise, a chocolate-orange imperial stout, and 680 IPA, a mahogany ale with notes of caramel and toffee. Schubros also gives 1% of their profits to various local organizations. Customers can go online to vote on where the money should go each quarter; options include environmental groups, school districts, and fire departments.
Since the brewery poured its first pint back in 1896, the business has changed hands, shut down, reopened, relocated, and retooled countless times. The first brewers, Ernst F. Baruth and his son-in-law Otto Schinkel, Jr., ran the original location for about a decade. Then it all fell apart—Baruth died unexpectedly, a fire destroyed the brewery, and Schinkel was killed by a streetcar. The bad luck didn’t stop there; the next generation had to weather Prohibition, effectively ending Anchor's operations for 13 years. The brewery then operated from 1933 until 1959, when it shut down yet again due to the rising popularity of mass-produced national beers, which were systematically pushing out local brewers.
The lean times and sudden upheavals finally began to level out in 1965, when Stanford graduate and Anchor aficionado Fritz Maytag rescued the operation from the clutches of bankruptcy. From then until his retirement in 2010, Maytag carried the business onward and upward, expanding its selection, hiring a larger staff, and even opening an in-house distillery. Today, Anchor operates out of same Mariposa Street location it opened in 1979.
Anchor's iconic copper brewhouse hybridizes hundreds of years of traditions and wisdom. The machinery itself is handmade and decades old, but the quality-control systems are anything but dated. Brewers use state-of-the-art methods, including open fermentation, to ensure the beers are as pure and fresh as possible. Still, they manage to marry both the antique and the modern by using an ancient process called dry hopping. A process akin to steeping tea, dry hopping is the art of adding bagged hops to maturing ales—a practice that’s existed for centuries but has just recently come back into vogue.
In 1973, when Anchor only brewed one type of beer, visionary owner Fritz Maytag was seeing the future. Mark Carpenter, Anchor's brewmaster for more than 40 years, recited Maytag's prophetic vision to SF Station: "Down the road there are going to be hundreds of little beers around the country and I don’t just want to be known for Anchor Steam—I want to be known for Anchor Steam, and porter and ale [and so on]."
And indeed, since then they've led the microbrewery revolution. "So many of our beers that were the first of their varieties in the U.S. have gone on to be huge,” continues Carpenter, “Liberty Ale is probably the most copied beer in the world—cascade hops are used everywhere now, and we were the first. Old Foghorn barley wine was the first barley wine in the U.S., and we created the first wheat beer."
What’s on Tap
Ingredient Origins: Meats and produce hail from farms and producers around California, unless imported from Spain. Expect produce from Knoll Organic Farms and seafood from CleanFish.
What’s Behind the Name: Owner Ron Silberstein found an article in the Chronicle titled “Thirsty Bear Bites Man for Cold Beer.” It was the story about an escaped circus bear who wandered into a bar, bit Victor Kozlov’s hand to get his beer, and then fell asleep in a park outside the bar, probably with a fake mustache drawn on by his friends.
Where to Sit: Grab a brushed-steel chair near a red-felt pool table in one of the industrial-style rooms surrounding the brewery’s glass-encased tanks.
When to Go: Sunday—if you like flamenco. Local artists such as Roberto Zamora and Clara Rodriguez give lively performances each week.
While You’re in the Neighborhood
Before: Pick up a book on David Lynch or Henri Matisse at 871 Fine Arts (20 Hawthorne Street)
After: See a postmodern performance at the absolute cutting edge of theatre at Yerba Buena Center For the Arts (700 Howard Street).
When to Go
Belgian red ale: Different from an irish red ale, the belgian version has a distinctly sour taste produced by fermentation with lactobacilli and long aging periods in oak barrels, which also give it a wine-like character.
Sisig: Filipino for “sour snack,” the most common form of this dish consists of pork marinated in vinegar or citrus, and then flavored with savory seasonings.
While You’re in the Neighborhood
Before: Marvel at the thousands of novelty pins in every imaginable shape and slogan at Oriental Art Gallery (1340 9th Avenue).
After: Head to Urban Bazaar (1371 9th Avenue) for an evening class in crafts such as crochet and printmaking, or bring a growler to the monthly Stitch ‘n’ Bitch gathering.
If You Can’t Make It, Try This: Longtime Social chef Christopher Wong created the menu at Blueprint Tap Room (680 8th Street)—the concept’s similar, although the beers aren’t made in-house.