As the sun sets over Victoria’s Inner Harbour, light streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows of Wharfside Seafood Grille, casting the brick patio in a pink glow. Inside the restaurant, which is operating under new ownership and management, the clientele enjoy the view through large windows whose panes are separated by dark wooden grilles for a ship's-cabin-like feel. The prime seaside setting not only defines Wharfside’s space, but inspires its cuisine. In addition to steaks and other land-based fare, chefs season locally snagged crab, prawns, and halibut with elegant flourishes such as tomato-apricot salsa and maple-soy reduction. Additionally, the new management of Wharfside Seafood Grille vows to serve only sustainably caught fish and abstain from fencing with swordfish.