From Our Editors
Glowing sconces cast angular light on the dining room walls, as if the shadows are the restaurant's decoration; instead they add contrast to wall-mounted Asian fans and pictogram-laden tapestries. Amid this traditional decor, waiters deliver sushi rolls meticulously wrapped with traditional fillings of shrimp, salmon, and fresh-water eel, or surprising centers of gobo root and jalapeños. This is just a part of the kitchen's wheelhouse, which also comprises an extensive menu of Japanese tapas. The servers line tables with sautéed shishito peppers and steamed mushrooms, as well as meaty offerings of herb-crusted lamb chops and grilled miso cod. Beyond the dining room, guests may retreat to the brick-lined outdoor patio, where a semitransparent covering lets light in, while keeping out the elements and parasailing paparazzi.