Fairway Lawns has an exclusive program for treating your lawn.
Our standard lawn care program consists of 7-8 applications per year, dependent on your location, grass type, and the needs of your lawn.
The program includes: Pre-emergent Weed Control (liquid spray); Post-Emergent Weed Control (liquid spray); Fertilization (granular and/or liquid applications); Liming, in some areas (granular); Free Service Calls.
Most of the weed control applications also contain some fertilizer that your lawn needs for good root health.
And whenever we do fertilizer applications, we also spot-spray any weeds we see in your lawn.
the first year you’re on our service, we may recommend additional weed control applications for problem weeds like dallisgrass, nutsedge, wild violets and onions, and winter weeds. Our number one goal for your lawn is to get the weeds out! After the first year, our standard program should be sufficient to keep your lawn up to par.
Should you have a problem between regularly scheduled applications, just give us a call!
Service calls are free for full program customers, and we will respond within 48 hours.
You don’t need to be home when we do your applications.
We can just come out at the appropriate times, leave your invoice on the door and a flag in your lawn, so you’ll know that we’ve been there.
Fairway Lawns lawn care is a continuous service, just like a newspaper subscription, so you don’t need to “renew” every year.
But if you move to Australia or hire your nephew to treat your lawn, please be sure to contact us so we can stop your service.
With our OnPar System, you’ll have a weed-free yard that is the envy of the neighborhood. All you need to do is water and mow, and leave the rest to us!
Tree and Shrub Care Program
Fairway Lawns’ Tree & Shrub Care Program helps protect the investment you have in your landscaping and enhances the beauty of your property.
Our fertilization promotes growth, enhances color, and maintains the health and vigor of your trees and shrubs, making them more resistant to disease throughout the growing season and hardier during the winter
We can’t keep all the bugs out of your landscape, nor do we want to-some of them are beneficial to the ecosystem.
But our insect and disease sprays keep insect populations at a controllable level and help stop any disease before it gets out of hand. Our program includes 5-9 applications, dependent on your location and your specific plant material. Your technician will recommend the appropriate applications
Full program customers will receive free service calls if needed between applications.
All dates are approximate and depend largely on weather conditions
Our applications are not insurance against any plant loss
Mother Nature intervenes when she wants to - but we will do our best to keep your landscape healthy and looking beautiful. If you notice any problems between your regular applications, please let us know so that we may take action in a timely manner
Early spring fertilizer application
Insect and disease control sprays (3 or 4, dependent on your location)
Fall/early winter fertilizer
Supplemental Applications needed for specific plant material
Dormant Oil in the early spring - controls scale insects on plants such as euonymus, hollies and azaleas. We do this application at the same time that we do the early spring fertilizer
Post-bloom fertilizer - promotes growth and health of azaleas
Dormant Oil in the fall/early winter - controls scale insects on plants such as euonymus, hollies and azaleas. We do this application at the same time that we do the fall/early winter fertilizer
Note: Our program does not include treating very large mature trees (over 25 feet.)
Full program customers will receive free service calls if needed between applications. All dates are approximate and depend largely on weather conditions. Our applications are not insurance against any plant loss - Mother Nature intervenes when she wants to - but we will do our best to keep your landscape healthy and looking beautiful. If you notice any problems between your regular applications, please let us know so that we may take action in a timely manner. Note: Our program does not include treating very large mature trees (over 25 feet.)
Flea and Tick Control
Ticks have become more than a nuisance pest in recent years
with incidents of Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever cropping up in the news with increasing frequency.
We can help control fleas and ticks in your backyard.
With our treatments throughout the summer and with your efforts to control fleas and ticks on your pets (by using products such as "Frontline") we can work together to control these unwanted insects. Don't wait until it's too late! It is better to be preventative than to wait for a problem to occur. To assist you in taking care of your yard this summer, we offer a series of flea and tick treatments.
At this time, flea and tick treatments are available in the Little Rock, Conway, Ft. Smith, Springdale, Tulsa, and Birmingham areas only.
currently available in the Little Rock, Conway, Ft. Smith, Springdale, Tulsa, and Birmingham areas. Protect your family from Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever with 4 applications throughout the summer.
Our prices start as low as $60 per visit 4 times per summer.
This special includes spraying the entire back yard up to 4000 square feet including flowerbeds, or we can treat the entire lawn for an additional charge.
For more information, or to schedule your first application, please call us at 1-866-471-0714.
currently available in the Little Rock, Conway, Ft. Smith, Springdale, Tulsa, and Birmingham areas. Protect your family from Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever with 4 applications throughout the summer.
Fire Ant Control
How to Kill Fire Ants with Year-long Fire Ant Control
Fire ants have become the number one insect problem in the south. As a pest professional, we now have a product available to us that will kill fire ants, controlling them for up to one full year with only one application. At this time, Fire Ant Control is available in the Little Rock, Conway, Ft. Smith, Memphis, and Birmingham areas only.
How It Works
Once the area is treated with a broadcast application several things happen: Fire ants work the treated soil, via mound construction and foraging tunnels, coming into contact with the pesticide; Fire ants become exposed either through contact or ingestion and spread the pesticide throughout the colony to other ants and the queen. This is called the domino effect; Succumbing to the lethal effects of the pesticide, the mound slowly and steadily crashes, eliminating the queen. (A fire ant colony may have several queens which can live 6-7 years and produce up to 1500 eggs per day.); The residual effect controls existing mounds and prevents new mounds from forming.
Where Can It Be Applied?
Residential lawn, Commercial lawns, School grounds, Parks, Sports fields, Landscape beds, Campsites, Golf turf.
What Does It Cost?
There are many variables involved in the cost of this application, such as the amount of turfgrass, the size and amount of flower beds, etc. We will be happy to provide you with a free estimate upon request.
What Are the Benefits of Having a Professional Do It?
To name just a few: This product is not available to the public; Just one application per year is necessary; Apply any time of the year; Also can control other species of ants, fleas and ticks for up to 30 days; Low toxicity to non-target animals.
Preventive Grub Control
White Grubs, or more commonly known as just Grubs, are the larvae of scarabs (beetles).
Everyone has grubs in their lawn, but when there are 10 or more grubs per square foot, they can damage your lawn. Grubs commonly attack the roots of turfgrasses and ornamental plants. Damage first appears to be drought stress or a lack of water. Heavily infested turf will appear off-color and wilt in the hot sun. Continued feeding by the grubs will cause the turf to die in large irregular patches. The grass may feel spongy and is easily rolled back or lifted like a piece of carpet, since the grubs have eaten the roots.
Grub populations also attract predatory mammals such as skunks
raccoons, opossums and moles that dig in search of a meal, causing further damage to the turf.
We offer a once-per-year Preventive Grub Treatment that is guaranteed for the season and costs twice your regular application price.
If you suspect you have a grub problem (or you don’t want to have one) just give us a call, or click underneath the little grub picture on the right, to add Preventive Grub control to your program.
Note: A Preventive Grub Application will not necessarily get rid of moles. Moles eat many insects, not just grubs.
available in all service areas. one application in the spring, guaranteed for the year.
Sup-R-Soil is a natural, liquid aeration product, unlike any other soil amendment on the market.
This environmentally-friendly product loosens and aerates compacted soil
forces sodium down below the root zone, and is completely natural and biodegradable.
Removing sodium from the root zone of your grass is so important because the sodium occupies spaces (called exchange sites) in the soil that should be occupied by nutrients, like fertilizer.
Once the sodium is gone, the grass can more readily absorb the nutrients, which means you get the most benefit out of your fertilizer. The Colorado State University Extension (Agriculture) explains this best on their website in a report entitled Managing Sodic Soils: "High sodium levels compete with calcium, magnesium, and potassium for uptake by plant roots. Therefore, excess sodium can prompt deficiencies of other cations (positively charged nutrients)."*Unfortunately, excess sodium is frequently present in your local water source that you use to water your lawn and that farmers use to irrigate their crops.
Sodium also causes compaction because it is positively charged while clay is negatively charged.
The positive charge of the sodium smashes the clay together.
Sup-R-Soil is a natural polymer with both a negative and a positive charge.
If you’ve ever played with magnets, you know that aiming the wrong end of one at the right end of the other will push the other magnet. The principle behind Sup-R-Soil is somewhat the same- the positive and negative forces work together to push it through your soil and aerate it.
Aeration provides better drainage, better penetration of water, and better air infiltration in the soil-in other words, a better environment for your lawn’s root system.
While mechanical aeration has its benefits, it only covers about 3%-5% of your lawn. Sup-R-Soil covers 100% of your lawn, and provides other benefits that mechanical aeration does not.
Only one application of Sup-R-Soil per year is necessary, as the effects are long-lasting.
The price is 2 times your regular application price.
Sup-R-Soil Liquid Aeration
Eliminates the need for aeration with a machine
Maximizes the benefits of rainfall or your watering, even during drought
Reduces soil erosion and soil compaction
Improves nutrient retention, maximizing the benefits of fertilizer
Fall Aeration & Overseeding
All cool season grass should be overseeded each fall to keep it thick and lush.
Unlike warm season grass, fescue, rye and bluegrass don’t spread. Seeding it each fall will insure that your shade grass stays nice and thick.
If you are inclined to do it yourself, please see our "How to Seed Fescue" page for step-by-step instructions.
Many areas that we service are in a transitional zone, which means that it’s really too hot for the shade grass.
It will look nice in the spring, but when the heat of summer hits it, some of it will die back, which makes fall overseeding that much more important.
If you do your own overseeding, be sure you choose a grass seed appropriate for your area.
Check with a sod producer in your town to see what they recommend - they should know, since they grow it! All overseeding should be done in mid to late September or early October. Shade grass’ growing season begins in the fall. Seeding in the spring is discouraged because the new grass won’t have enough time to develop a good root system before the heat of the summer, and you will lose a lot of it. Also, if you seed in the spring, you will be unable to apply pre-emergents to those areas and may have a weed problem.
Currently, we offer Fall Aeration and Overseeding in the Tulsa, Memphis, Huntsville, AL, and Springdale, AR areas.
If you have shade grass in your lawn, and don’t want to do the fall overseeding yourself, please call us for a free estimate. We usually do overseedings in mid to late September.
We will select the best type of seed for your area, mechanically aerate your shade areas, and seed those areas.
The mechanical aeration helps incorporate the seed into the soil.
The Overseeding Process
Please keep your newly-seeded areas moist for 3 weeks. Water lightly (5-10 minutes) at least once per day, up to 3 times per day. If it’s windy and/or still warm, it will dry out more quickly. If the seed dries out, it will not germinate. If newly-germinated seedlings don’t get water, they will die quickly. After mowing, you may return to a normal watering schedule.
Seed should begin to germinate in about 7-10 days. All of the seed will not germinate at once. Maximum germination will not occur until mid-February of next year.
Keep Leaves Off
Fescue must have sunlight to do well next year. When the leaves are off the trees in the winter, fescue is busy using sunlight to build carbohydrate reserves (by photosynthesis) to get through the hot summer coming up. Please keep leaves off of the seeded areas, before germination and after. A blower is best for this until the seed is up and it’s been mowed. Please do not use a rake on the seed or new seedlings.
Keep Traffic Off
Please keep heavy traffic off your newly seeded areas. If dogs or children are present, you may want to rope off the area until it is established.
When your new grass is about 2-2 1/2” tall, it’s okay to mow. Try to mow carefully, so that the wheels aren’t gouging in when you turn. You might want to bag the clippings to more easily keep the leaves off of it.
Sign up for our program over the phone (1-866-471-0714.)
We’ll do your first application when we come out to do your estimate and lawn analysis. You see, approximately 75% of the estimates we do turn into customers. So, we save a trip, and you get your first application for just $24.95!** (covers up to 5,000 square feet - a $51.00 value!)
Why would you do that without getting the estimate first?
We can usually look at the records of your neighbors who are already Fairway Lawns customers and give you a ballpark range for your application price. And we’ll be happy to spend as much time as necessary on the phone with you to tell you about our program and answer any questions. If we go out to measure your lawn and the price exceeds the price we gave you on the phone, we will just leave the estimate without treating your lawn or starting your program. Or, if you wish, we can give you a call while we’re still on the lawn, for approval.
If you’d rather meet with us for the first application
we can give you a call beforehand and set a time to meet with you.
Save us a trip and save yourself some money
Just fill out the estimate form online and check the “I would like to get my first application for $24.95** box, or just give us a call.
Prepay for the Year and Save!
Prepay for the Year and Save Even More!
If you prepay for your service, plus one or both of the additional optional services, Preventive Grub Control or Sup-R-Soil, you will save 8% off of everything!
Refer a Friend - Get $50 Credit to your Account!
If your friend takes our full program (6-8 applications) we will credit your account $50. And, there's no limit to how many you can refer or how many $50 credits you can receive. Read the rules and full details.
General Service Information
Are estimates free?
Estimates are always free. You don’t even have to be home. We can come by and leave the information on your door, or we can call you to set a time to meet with you.
What does it cost?
We base your price on the square footage of your grass areas. Prices start as low as $34 per application. Many times, we can estimate a price range over the phone by looking at the records of your neighbors who are already Fairway Lawns customers.
Do I need to sign a contract?
Ours is a verbal agreement. You are free to cancel at any time. But if you stay on our program, you will see the best results. Our service is continuous from year to year, like a subscription, so if you move or need to cancel for some other reason, you must contact us to stop the service.
What are your office hours?
Our office hours are 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. CST Monday through Friday and 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. CST on Saturdays in the spring. You can reach all branches with our toll free number 1-866-471-0714. For your local office #, please click on your state under Service Area on the blue navigation bar above. After hours, please feel free to email us.
Are you privately owned?
Fairway Lawns has been under the same family ownership since 1979. We are not publicly traded (which means we do business the right way, without pressure from stockholders.) Read about Fairway Lawns' history.
Are the applications safe for my children and pets?
All our applications equal or exceed EPA safety standards. We recommend that children and pets stay off the yard after a liquid application, until it is dry (about 30 minutes.) This is an additional safety measure in case someone happens to have a particular allergy (even dogs can have allergies.) Through the years, we have found that this is a personal decision. Some clients leave their dogs out all the time, even while we’re doing the application, and others always put them in the house or garage when we’re coming out.
Do I have to be home when you come out?
Not at all. We will just leave your invoice on the door, along with information on today’s application as well as watering and mowing instructions. If you need to know when we’re coming out, to unlock a gate or put up the dogs, we can call you the day before to let you know.
How many times per year do you come out?
Our regular program is 7 to 8 applications per year, depending on the type of grass you have and which city and state you live in. When we do an estimate, we will recommend the appropriate program for your lawn. We may recommend some additional weed applications for the first year only, depending on the shape your lawn is in and the time of year that you start the service.
How often/when do you come out?
Our applications are generally 5-8 weeks apart, depending on your location and the time of year. During the growing season, applications are closer together than they are in the fall and winter, for obvious reasons. Your lawn tech will leave an approximate schedule when he does your estimate. Our schedule is always dependent on weather conditions.
Can you treat weeds in the flowerbeds?
Unfortunately, we can’t treat flowerbeds. Flowers and ornamentals are just too sensitive to the weed control materials, and we can’t risk damaging any of your plants.
If someone referred me, do they get a discount?
Most of our customers come from referrals from other happy customers, and we appreciate that very much! If someone referred you and you become a full-program customer, that person will get a $50 credit on his or her account. Likewise, when you are on our service and you refer someone else, you will receive the same $50 credit each time someone you refer becomes a full-program customer. Read all about our referral program.
What are free service calls?
If you see weeds popping up, or you need some extra fertilizer between your regularly-scheduled applications, we’ll come out and treat your lawn at no charge. (Skipping regular applications voids this guarantee.)
How long until I see results?
It depends on the shape your yard’s in to begin with. When we do your estimate, we’ll let you know how long it will take for your lawn to reach its maximum potential. Some customers start out with a yard that’s a mess! Others have new sod that looks great. With each application, you’ll see a difference, but if your yard is thin and full of weeds, it make take a growing season or two to get it looking like a showplace.
May I take less than the recommended number of applications, perhaps just the weed control?
It depends on the results you’d like to see. If you want the results that we want for you, you must take the full program. Many people think if they just take the weed control applications, they won’t have weeds. But your main defense against weeds is a thick, lush lawn. If you want to take just the weed control applications, then you must be sure you fertilize your lawn yourself. And bear in mind that when we do fertilizer applications, we also spot spray weeds. The materials we use are not available over-the-counter-some weeds, like wild violets or onions or nutsedge require special materials designed specifically for those weeds. And if you take just weed control applications, we will not be out in the summer when summer weeds are present.
Can you get rid of moles or gophers?
If we knew how, we’d be rich! Unfortunately, there is no sure way to rid your yard of moles and gophers. Traps are the best way, but they are difficult to place and time-consuming to monitor. Terriers can be good at catching them, but they’ll dig up your entire yard in the process. A shotgun works, too, but the neighbors would probably call the police! But seriously, please do not think that getting a preventive grub application or treating for grubs will rid your lawn of moles. Moles eats many different things, primarily earthworms. If you have a bad mole problem, you may want to contact a pest control company who will set and monitor traps.
I just got my application and...
What if it rains right after?
In most cases, rainfall will not harm your application. In fact, all applications need to be watered in, so rainfall is really a benefit. However, if it's raining when we're planning on coming out, we will reschedule your application, as we don't want our lawn techs out in the rain, especially if lightning is a possibility!
What if my mowers came right after you did an application?
With dry granular fertilizer applications, it doesn't matter at all. The lawnmower will not "suck up" the fertilizer. But if we did a liquid weed control application, give it 7-10 days to judge the effectiveness, and give us a call if you don't see some results. If your mowers have a set schedule (or you always mow on certain days,) just let us know, and we'll note that on your account and work around it.
When can I mow and water?
Rule of thumb is to wait 24 hours, water the application, then mow. You can wait longer if you want to, but try to get it watered in within 7 days, if there's no rain. Each time we come out, we'll leave information about the application on your door with your invoice.
Do I have to water before I mow?
For best results after an application, water it in before mowing.
When can I let my children and dogs out?
If we did a liquid application, please let it dry before letting children and pets on the lawn--about 30 minutes. This is just an additional safety precaution in case a child or dog happens to have a particular allergy.
Why is there fertilizer on my driveway & patio?
We do our best to keep fertilizer off your concrete areas, but you might find some once in awhile, because the commercial spreaders that we use are designed for the best possible coverage. The fertilizer we use will not hurt or stain your concrete.
Why are you doing an application in the winter?
Although your lawn may be brown and dormant in January and February and look like it doesn't need anything, there are literally millions of weed seeds down there, just getting ready to germinate. Over the winter, rain and wind and animals have brought all kinds of seeds to your lawn. Our pre-emergent is designed to stop a lot of these before they germinate. Once certain weeds germinate (like crabgrass) they are extremely difficult to control.
Why are you doing an application when my lawn is brown and I can't water?
Summer drought can put some nice lawns into premature dormancy, and we understand that it's not always possible or practical to keep watering, not to mention the water bill! But even though it looks brown, the root system is still active and still needs caring for, even more so because it is drought-stressed. When the fall rains come, your lawn will recover much more quickly than those that have not been fertilized, and the late summer fertilizer will give it a healthy boost to help protect it against cold weather and freeze damage.
Why do I still have weeds after I've been on your service awhile?
There are many different scenarios that will produce different answers. But, regardless of the scenario, if you see weeds between your regular applications, just call us and we'll take care of it. To fully understand what we're all up against when it comes to weed control, please see our WEEDS page.
Why are you doing another application so soon?
During late spring and summer, as we get into the growing season, your applications could be 4 weeks apart. If it's your first year on the service and your lawn tech advised that you would need grassy weed applications, you may have 2 or 3 applications as close together as a week or 10 days. We realize that may not be convenient for your budget, but it's what your lawn needs to get into shape. We will never do extra applications or applications that you did not authorize when you started the service.
Why did you do 2 (or 3) applications at once?
Certain optional applications coincide time-wise with regular applications. If you requested a Sup-R-Soil application and a Preventive Grub application, these may coincide with your fertilizer application. Or you may have a Tree & Shrub fertilization done at the same time as a Dormant Oil spray, just because that's the correct time to do both, even though they're completely different. The applications are perfectly compatible and thus can be done at the same time. If this is a strain on your budget, you may feel free to take an additional 30 days to pay, or just call our office if you need to make other arrangements. We'd rather get the applications down at the right time and get paid a little later, than put the applications down at the wrong time.
Do I need a mulching mower?
Mulching mowers are great, but you don't really need one. Just mow often enough that you don't have to bag the clippings. Please see our MOWING page for full details on this most necessary and important part of lawn care.
What are scalping and dethatching, and do I need to do either?
Scalping in the spring is simply the process of removing all the old dead grass that has insulated your dormant lawn all winter so that the sun can warm the ground and your lawn will green up sooner. Scalping is for warm season lawns only and should be done only after all chance of frost is past. We recommend scalping all warm season grass lawns each spring. Dethatching is a major process and should only be done if your lawn really needs it. You can avoid the need to dethatch with proper mowing techniques and scalping (of warm season grasses) in the spring. Click here for full details.
What's the best time to water?
The best time to water is early morning, 4 AM to 9 AM. However, watering at any time is better than not watering at all. Read all the details on when to water and how much to water.
How much should I water?
Your lawn needs 1" to 2" of water per week, during the growing season, whether it's from your watering or rainfall. Read all about how to determine how long to run your sprinklers and for complete details on the important subject of watering.
Do I need to water in the winter?
Your lawn needs water year-round, even if it's dormant. Although not very practical, watering in the winter is important to keep the root system of your grass well-insulated against freezing temperatures that could damage it. Here are complete details on watering.
General Lawn Questions
Why are there brown spots in my lawn?
Good question. Brown spots can be an indicator of many different things. If we came out recently and spot-sprayed your weeds, there may be a temporary browning in your lawn, due to the materials used. Grassy weeds require a material that can temporarily damage the surrounding grass, but the key word is temporary. Proper watering and mowing will have it green again in no time. Unfortunately, this is the only way to get rid of certain stubborn grassy weeds. Brown spots can also indicate insect damage, such as that from grubs, chinch bugs, leafhoppers, armyworms, etc. Grubs, when overactive, can eat the roots of your grass, so you can pick it up like a piece of carpet. Other insects, such as chinch bugs, are so small it's hard to diagnose initially. Be sure to give us a call if you think you have a problem! Brown spots in the spring (areas that simply did not green up) could be Spring Dead Spot, a soil disease for which there is no preventive or cure. Read more about Spring Dead Spot and learn how to repair the damage quickly. Another reason for brown spots is improper mowing. Did you (or your mowers) accidentally scalp it, or perhaps one of the wheels hit a hole and the blades went too low? Was the mower leaking oil or gas? Did you let it get really long before mowing? Proper mowing techniques are very important. Dogs (especially female dogs or young males who still squat) using the bathroom in the same place can also cause brown spots. If this is the case, there will probably be a bright green ring around the brown spot, due to the nitrogen in the dog's urine. Not much you can do about it, except train the dog to go somewhere else, like way in the back in the corner. Heavy watering in these areas can also help dilute the concentration of nitrogen. Lack of water is another reason for brown spots. If you have automatic sprinklers, check them occasionally to be sure you are getting complete coverage. One may be aimed wrong and you might have an area that is being missed. Lawn diseases, like brown patch or dollar spot are another reason for brown spots or other discoloration. Read more about lawn diseases. If you notice any unusual discolorations (might even be yellow or orange or grey) in your lawn, please give us a call. Your lawn tech or a field manager will be happy to come out and diagnose the problem and recommend a treatment if available.
Why does my neighbor's lawn look better/greener than mine?
You'd be surprised how often we get a call in the early spring from someone saying his neighbor's lawn is green and his isn't. The reason is that our customer's lawn is Bermuda that hasn't come out of dormancy yet, and the neighbor's lawn is green because it's all weeds and he's already mowing them. So, green isn't necessarily good all the time! But his lawn could also be fescue or bluegrass, which is green when bermuda is dormant. Of course, if it's the summer, we certainly can't have a neighbor's lawn greener than yours! When we investigate we usually find one of the following: Our customer is letting his lawn get too high, and then mowing off more than half the height at once. This will result in a brown lawn after mowing. Our customer is not watering as much as his neighbor is. Our customer's neighbor is retired and does nothing but take care of his lawn every day, including fertilizing twice a month and mowing every three days. Our customer's lawn mower blades are very dull, resulting in the grass getting torn instead of cut. This will result in a brown lawn after mowing. Or maybe your lawn is just not responding well to your last fertilizer application for some reason and needs a supplemental boost of fertilizer. If you're a full program customer, just give us a call, and we'll come out at no charge.
How often should I mow?
Ideally, you should mow when your lawn needs mowed. During the growing season, that could be twice per week. Please visit our mowing page for an easy way to find out how often you should mow, according to your grass type.
How much should I water?
Your lawn needs 1" to 2" of water per week, during the growing season, whether it's from your watering or rainfall. Read about how to determine how long to run your sprinklers and for complete details on the important subject of watering.
Why is my lawn thin?
The main reasons for a thin lawn are improper mowing, lack of fertilizer, too much shade, lack of over-seeding (for cool season grass like fescue,) or serious compaction. Improper mowing - that is, letting it get too high and mowing too infrequently - will contribute to your lawn thinning out. Mow frequently enough so that you don't have to bag the clippings - this will help keep your lawn thick and lush. Not putting fertilizer down during the summer will also thin out your lawn, because the grass is lacking the proper nutrients. Many people don't want to fertilize because they think they will have to mow too much. But your lawn won't be healthy without fertilizer and proper mowing. Frequently, people have full Bermuda or zoysia lawns, and then their trees get big and the amount of shade increases year by year. Thinning grass is a sure sign of too much shade. At this point, no amount of fertilizer, mowing, or watering will thicken it up. We recommend seeding shade grass in the fall, or putting in some shade-tolerant ground cover like ivy or vinca. Read about other shade solutions. Already have shade grass in the shade areas, and it's getting thin? You must overseed shade grass each fall to keep it thick. Serious compaction will make your lawn thin or even give you bare spots. Ever notice the bare spot beneath a swing? That's not from little feet rubbing the grass off. It's from being constantly stood on and jumped on, and the soil is so compacted that NOTHING will grow there. The roots can't get into the dense, hard soil. You'll also see this where your dogs usually run along the fence or where they lay in the yard. Even if you don't have a swing or a dog, you may just have hard clay that's giving you a compaction problem. If the roots can't easily penetrate the soil, your grass will be thin. Consider getting a Sup-R-Soil liquid aeration application, or renting an aerating machine. Aeration is good for any lawn!
When should I prune my trees and shrubs?
A good rule of thumb is NOT to prune when leaves are forming or falling. Spring bloomers produce flower on wood from the prior season. If you want a heavy flower growth next year, prune plants such as forsythia and azaleas, after the flowers have wilted. Summer bloomers follow the opposite theory. Their flowers grow from new wood produced the same season. A late winter pruning will encourage the growth of new wood and abundant flowers. Evergreen trees generally need less pruning than deciduous trees. But when necessary, needle evergreens, such as pine and spruce, also prefer a late winter/early spring trimming just before their growth spurt. Avoid fall pruning. Heavy pruning is usually best done in late winter, when the plant is dormant and temperatures are above freezing. Avoid topping. Proper pruning should not be confused with topping. Topping removes a tree's main leader and branches, resulting in stubs. Topping will severely disfigure trees and results in "watersprouts" and weak limbs that are susceptible to damage from high winds or other adverse weather. (You've probably seen trees that have been topped by utility companies to keep them out of electrical wires - not very pretty!) These guidelines are just that - guidelines. We can all find examples of particular species that may go against these pruning guidelines. If you are in doubt, check with a professional arborist or your county extension service.
When should I plant trees and shrubs?
Actually, the question should be when shouldn't you plant trees and shrubs? Don't plant when the trees and shrubs are already stressed or will have a hard time getting acclimated, such as during the heat of the summer or periods of drought. If you want the freshest plants, make your purchases early in the season. Most nurseries dig their trees in winter and ship them along with new container-grown plants in early spring. If you are on a budget and have a little bit of a green thumb, buy in the fall. You'll have to take some leftover plants but you can really get some good deals. Winter is fine for planting, as long as the ground isn't frozen. You should dig a hole twice as big as the root ball when planting. Always remove the material from a balled tree or shrub before planting. Some of the items you'll find are plastic buckets, wire baskets used for transporting, regular untreated burlap, treated burlap, burlap with nylon or plastic woven into it or any kind of string. We regularly find these items still attached to the root ball, when customers ask us to investigate why a tree is doing poorly.
Payment / Billing
How do I pay my bill?
Each time we come out, we will leave your invoice on the door. There are many ways to pay: mail a check after each application; prepay for the entire year and get a discount; make monthly payments with a credit card (annual cost, divided by 12); call our office with your credit card #; set up automatic credit card billing for hassle-free payment; pay online with a credit card.
What credits cards do you take?
We take Visa, MasterCard and Discover. You may call us with your credit card # or pay online (click on "Online Billpay" in the blue navigation bar.)
Is there a discount for paying for the year?
If you would like to prepay for the year, we offer a 4% discount. If you take the full program, plus one special optional application (like Sup-R-Soil or Preventive Grub) we offer an 8% discount on everything.
May I take extra time to pay if I had 2 different applications at once?
Of course. Sometimes two applications are done at once because it’s the proper time to do them, but we know that’s tough on the budget. In that situation, you may take an additional 30 days to pay.
How long do I have to pay my bill before a late fee is applied?
We ask that you pay within 30 days, but we do not apply late fees. If it's going to be over 30 days, please call our office to notify us.