From Our Editors
"It's a game of chicken wing roulette," remarks Simon Chin on the Gentlemen Know Style blog. He's talking about Debasaki's gyoza wings, which forgo bones for the kind of stuffing you'd find in the traditional Asian dumpling. The chefs fill the meaty morsels with corn, shrimp, hot peppers, or a blend of veggies—order the combination platter, and you'll know exactly what Chin was talking about. Korean fried chicken, both stuffed and otherwise, is the highlight here: aromatic plates of wings that Serious Eats calls "blissfully meaty" with a "spicy gloss [that] is enough to snap you to attention, but not enough to overwhelm the interior." But there's also plenty for the adventurous: kimchi fried rice comes adorned with an over-easy egg to temper its blazing spice, and the seafood oden soup brims with a medley of mussels, fishcakes, crab, and dumplings. As diners cleanse their palates with spoonfuls of green tea ice cream, a ritzy cosmopolitan décor complements feasts with playful, jellyfish-like light fixtures and geometric furniture.