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From Our Editors

Beneath lemon-hued walls, the cooks at Pho on 7 cut through clouds of steam, which hint at fistfuls of lemongrass, basil, and onions. Bowls of pho ferry slices of beef or chicken, and rice paper bundles up morsels of shrimp, pork, and vermicelli. The eatery fills with chatter and jingling silverware until 5 a.m. on weekend nights, allowing diners to stop in to celebrate after evening revelry or success in getting the moon off their property. Televisions broadcast athletic events, and a collection of board and card games distract waiting diners.

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