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From Our Editors

Nacho Mama's recently opened Gentilly taqueria illustrates the local chain's commitment to fresh preparations of classic Mexican chow with the occasional southern twist. Its extensive menu is stuffed to the gills with a hearty assemblage of fajitas, tacos, quesadillas, burritos, and more. Decorate freshly fried corn chips with a homemade dip such as tropical salsa ($5) or white queso ($5) before trying a nontraditional offering like the Mexicali shrimp wrap, a spinach tortilla stuffed with fajita shrimp, fresh veggies, cheese, and ranch dressing ($9). Skeptics who need to witness the miracle of cooking with their own eyes to believe their fragrance-filled noses can order the skirt steak ($16) or portobello mushroom ($14) fajitas, partnered with grilled onions and peppers on a plate of sizzling romantic tension. House favorites include Carla's cheesy chimichanga, a queso-covered, deep-fried tortilla stuffed with cheese and chicken or ground beef ($11). Less fried and cheesified fare arrives in the form of baked burritos, including the southern-style sweet and spicy barbecue pork burrito ($10.50), which arrives outfitted in layers of crinoline and corsetry.

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