From Our Editors
Try This: Panettone
For Gelatiamo owner Maria Coassin, panettone—the Italian, holiday sweet bread made with eggs, butter, raisins, candied lemon, and orange peel—is synonymous with family. It makes sense, then, that she learned how to make it from her dad, who learned it from his dad, and so on. In fact, the family ritual stretches all the way back six generations to the 1800s. Coassin continues the time-honored tradition every Thanksgiving through New Years within Gelatiamo’s kitchen.
The recipe and process haven’t changed much over the years, which means long, tedious hours. Perhaps that’s why Coassin, during an interview with The Seattle Times, admits to calling each loaf one of her “babies”. After all, it takes 27 hours just to prep the loaves, which rise a total of five times during the lengthy process. With each doughy ascent, Coassin adds in more locally sourced ingredients until they’re loaded with just the right amount. When the 27th hour rolls around, she’s finally ready to bake them in the oven. What emerges are sweet breads so delicate that they must cool upside down to avoid collapsing in on themselves. Coassin is then ready to sell the bread to happy patrons. She does, however, keep a few loaves for herself, as she needs something to bring to her family when she visits Italy during the holidays.