The sushi chefs in Seattle range from diehard traditionalists to the creatively irreverent. Perhaps the most influential name is Shiro Kashiba, who manned Seattle's first sushi bar in 1970. Today, he still slices local fish at his eponymous restaurant. For progressive flavors, though, you'll want to look to Hajime Sato, who made the leap to a fully sustainable sushi bar in 2009. And, if you're feeling truly daring, pay Ken Yamamoto a visit at Shiki. _Seattle Met_ says that he's one of a handful of chefs in American licensed to prepare and serve fugu, a puffer fish that is typically poisonous if not prepared exactly right.