About this Business
From Our Editors
“The name suggests abundance,” a writer for the New York Times said, “the promise of the sort of bounty found in Dutch still lifes of tables overflowing with dewy comestibles.” That plenteousness is curated by chef Joseph Trama, a 30-year veteran whose skills were forged in eateries such as Quilted Giraffe and Ann Howard’s Apricots. In the restaurant, splashes of color leap from crimson beet essence, kaleidoscopic heirloom tomatoes in burrata cheese, and seasonal baby vegetables, reinforcing the sensation that one is looking into an oil painting.
Further attesting to the transportive power of the food, a writer for Westchester Magazine suggested that those unable to get to the beach simply dine upon the eatery’s Chatham cod with fingerling potatoes: “Sure, you’re all pale and woefully free of sand, but this dish of milky cod with sprightly Romesco sauce will get you through at least a few more weeks.” Silverware chatters against those plates of cod or duck with dirty wild rice on the sun-dappled outdoor patio. The sound drifts inside, where chandeliers shiver above semiprivate nooks in a wine cellar, and glass of wine and cocktails click together. Much like the moustache of spy, the beer menu changes frequently, though it has included offerings from Ommegang, where brewers recreate Belgian beers with European hops and notes of coriander, orange peel, and ginger.