Bhan Baitong's menu boasts a few Chinese dishes, such as chow mein and fried wonton. But the restaurant mostly sticks with Thai classics: tom yum soup, spicy fried rice, red curry with chicken. Some come with fun names, including the crying tiger, a medley of greens with charbroiled beef and chili lime sauce. Ditto on the disco shrimp salad, whose succulent grilled shrimp are tossed with lemongrass and carrot rather than leftover glitter from KC and the Sunshine Band's last tour.

Seafood stands out among the culinary team's specialties, whether in the form of deep-fried trout coated with green-apple relish or fried rice tossed with scallop, crab claw, squid, and shrimp. Each artfully plated dish adds bursts of color to a cozy dining room of textured white walls, black furnishings, and green napkins.