Before breakfast was the first meal of the day, it was part of a midday supermeal—Dinner, Breakfast, Nash & Young. Give breakfast’s solo work its proper respect with today’s Groupon: for $7, you get $15 worth of southern fare at Cockadoos.
The cooks at Cockadoos dole out both breakfast and lunch dishes all day long, augmenting their menu of grits, breakfast casseroles, and texas-toast sandwiches with locally brewed Mississippi Mud Coffee. The Memphis barbecue omelet ($7.99) punctuates a trio of eggs, juicy pulled pork, and provolone cheese with barbecue seasonings, whose flavorful accents reinvent the omelet the way Ben Franklin reinvented kites to run on lightning. Taste buds do backflips when they greet The Shag, a french-toast sandwich populated by bananas and peanut butter and crowned by hot syrup, a mound of whipped cream, and blueberries ($7.99). Sweet-potato hash browns ($2.99), lightly browned in a julienne style, waltz from the griddle to the table bearing gifts of tiny marshmallows. Diners can wrestle down the pretzel chili dog, a quarter-pound all-beef hot dog on a pretzel bun that harbors homemade chili and spicy cheese ($6.99). Local farmers supply fresh organic produce for the bottomless salad bar ($7.99), so named for its lack of a basement.
The sounds of griddles simmering and batters being whipped about begin at midnight on weekends, since Cockadoos’ staff dishes out plates from 12 a.m. until 3 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. The 120-year-old building boasts plush booths, a metallic breakfast bar, and a sidewalk area where diners flaunt their meals to cars stuck gobbling gasoline.