First, a stack of onion rings is a blazing volcano, spewing forth fire. The next minute, it's a steam-engine, chugging across the smooth surface of a teppanyaki grill. This is par for the course at Daruma Japanese Steakhouse, where the chefs don't just play with the food—it's their job to. Gathered around tables at the hibachi steakhouse, which is under new ownership, diners are treated to an entertaining dinner preparation by their hibachi chefs, who cook their meals to order right before them, searing steaks and sautéing fresh vegetables. Back at the sushi bar, chefs assemble platters of sashimi and nigiri, or build rolls lined with fresh fish and tiny, edible paper towel tubes to keep everything the right shape.