Like a tree’s favorite sport, the menu at Aperto changes with the seasons, adapting to whatever local, organic ingredients are currently available—including wild-caught fish and poultry from Fulton Valley Farms. Besides the housemade pastas and entrees such as red-wine-braised beef short ribs, a selection of white and red wines pairs well with the rust- and cream-colored decor. As Meredith Brody of SF Weekly observed in 2008, the “simple but effective” furnishings include wainscot rails, framed photographs, and a large armoire where grandpas can nap after a hearty meal.