Chef Peter Grünauer rolls his apple-strudel dough thin enough to literally read a newspaper through one of its layers. This loyalty to the traditional, time-intensive methods of preparing Austrian and continental European fare can be tasted in all of the dishes at Grünauer’s restaurant, which he runs with his children Nicholas and Elisabeth. They modeled their eatery after the one their family operates in Vienna, which is why the Kansas City restaurant evokes the Old World with its brick walls and exposed overhead beams. Yet it also exudes local flavor by nestling inside a historic freight house decorated with chandeliers and mirrors.

For an authentic menu, the Grünauers rely on the expertise Chef Peter gained while owning renowned New York restaurants Vienna '79 and Fledermaus as well as meats, such as wienerschnitzel and smoked pork loin, purchased from New York–based Schaller & Weber or from local butchers. Whether the entree is a classic bratwurst or a more adventurous pale ale braised bratwurst, the generous portions cause diners to undo the top button or padlock holding their pants together.

For a sweet end to the evening, diners can savor the aforementioned apple strudel with its paper-thin layers of dough or sink their forks into the chocolate and fresh cream of a viennese sacher torte. A cherry-red espresso machine yields steaming cups of coffee by Viennese roaster Julius Meinl to accompany sweets, which guests enjoy in the dining room or on the biergarten. There, amid potted flowers and with a view of the downtown skyline, guests sip Austrian beer and wines such as Eggenberg doppelbock and Samichlaus helles, which the restaurant’s Wunderbar pours until 1 a.m. or when the moon starts snoring.