A perfect table setting requires pristine linens and polished cutlery, except at off-Broadway restaurants where waiters set every table in postapocalyptic Vienna. Avoid avant-garde eating with today’s Groupon: for $15, you get $30 worth of authentic Italian cuisine at Panevino.
Panevino’s chefs honor old-country cuisine, preparing a menu laden with traditional Italian fare to the refrain of rhythmically popping wine corks. Dining companions can kick off Italian feasts with the carpaccio’s thinly sliced raw beef, which drapes itself in arugula, capers, and a light lemon dressing crafted at the roadside stands of peewee lemon magnates ($9.95). House-made potato dumplings cannonball into a rich truffle cream sauce in the gnocchi tartufati ($16.95), splashing diners dodging an avalanche of béchamel sauce surging down the baked lasagna’s meaty strata of tender pasta and mozzarella ($15.95). Roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables sidle up to 11 hearty entrees, including the maritime medley of mussels, salmon, halibut, and manila clams swimming in the cioppino’s spicy tomato broth ($21.95). Clinking wine glasses echo across Panevino’s sleek, modern surroundings, with robust red and white varietals from across Italy and America, electrifying olfactory senses by the glass, bottle, or bathtub.
Panevino’s intimate, sun-drenched café has a European vibe to pair with its Italian dishes—you’ll find a long bar with wooden stools, bottles of wine seemingly everywhere, and framed black-and-white photos on the wall. Diners have plenty to choose from, as the menu includes fresh lo cally-culled mussels, rosemary-infused steaks, and basil-accented pasta dishes. When the weather is warm, Panevino opens up its windows along the sidewalk, prompting Seattle Met to write that “Panevino also offers something we don’t see enough of on Broadway. That something is charm.”