Chef Denise Roy, who captains the kitchen at Surf’s Up, knows the value of a good deep fryer: she slips everything from lobster and shrimp to green tomatoes into hers, creating delicious and crunchy seafood dishes. The fryer’s bounty is then dipped into sauces or nestled in tacos, competing with shrimp po’ boys and snow-crab legs for a place in diners’ stomachs and hearts. Hand-cut fries and housemade biscuits accompany the seafood to the tables, which are grouped in a cozy dining room whose blond-wood food counter is decorated with a colorful skurfer board, the offspring of a surfboard and a set of water skis.