From Our Editors
Thierry Amezcua recreates the restaurant atmosphere he remembers from his native Mexico City with classic recipes, artwork borrowed from his brother, and even a bartender from his former neighborhood, Coyoacán. With help in the kitchen from his wife, Debby, as well as expertise gained during stints at Savoy and Il Buco, Amezcua fills Papatzul's menu with nopalitos––prickly pear stems––dashes of chipotle, yucca roots, and other singular Mexican flavors. Chilaquiles, in a choice of green tomatillo poblano or red pasilla chili sauce, kick off the brunch menu alongside huevos rancheros with avocado and queso fresco. Appetizers such as the elote de Coyoacán—dubbed "obscenely tasty" by Forbes—slather corn on the cob with cream, cheese, and spicy chilis. Diners can sample lunch and dinner entrees such as seafood enchiladas or tacos with braised chipotle beef. Behind the bar, dozens of tequilas showcase the spirit's versatility, and can be sipped straight or stirred into fruit and flower margaritas. Mexican masks and Day of the Dead–inspired paintings dot the dining-room walls above long leather banquettes, where Amezcua maintains a festive party atmosphere with soft lighting, strings of colorful papel picado, and a wait staff that communicates only through confetti poppers.