Sushi Kuni, Grand Rapids

Sushi Kuni's decor is a fitting preamble to its cuisine. Blond woods complement pillars that take inspiration from shoji screens, eloquently easing diners into a Pacific mindset. Once there, they find plenty of surprises. Along with the requisite sushi, sashimi, and Japanese entrees implied by the surroundings, a full menu of authentic Korean dishes shows off the skill of the restaurant's chefs. Beef dumplings in bone soup can share table space with stir-fried squid and veggies. Then there's the emphasis on healthful culinary traditions. Vegetarian options cater to guests with dietary restrictions as well as those eager to venture into unexplored culinary territory.

Most diners won't need to travel far beyond the expansive sushi menu. Grilled yakitori skewers and teriyaki-glazed chicken appear alongside more than 50 rolls filled with everything from red snapper and mozzarella to lobster tempura and avocado. And for the traditionalist, a variety of fresh sashimi arrives to tables on a carved wooden bridge, which serves as both a symbolic crossing between chef and diner as well as a practical crossing for tiny people who have to cross tiny rivers. Sushi Kuni is now open Tuesday through Sunday.