Pompeo's Italian Restaurant, Branford

The ovens at Pompeo's Italian Restaurant have been popping out pizzas for 20 years. Chefs cover the crusts with steak, seafood, and broccoli rabe before sprinkling on handfuls of shredded mozzarella. The ovens pull double duty with the menu of pasta dishes, baking cheese ravioli, trays of ziti, and heaps of lasagna. A classic Italian eatery, the chefs naturally offer every staple dish, from chicken parmigiana to veal marsala to shrimp scampi. They can also supersize orders for gatherings to celebrate birthdays and graduations from traffic school.