Roman Forum, Canton

Cooks toss pizza crusts, the pillowy dough puffing out as it falls back through the air into their hands. To allow those with specific diets to enjoy them, the crew crafts gluten- and dairy-free pies, which arrive to tables along with pastas. Drawing on nearly four decades of culinary experimentation, the family of owners bustles among steaming pots and crowded cutting boards, forging seafood specialties such as broiled lobster tail. The eatery’s sprawling banquet room seats 70 people for special occasions or announcements that 61 people are cut from the softball team.