Yokozuna, Chicago

Chicago’s red-line train runs nearly the entire length of the city from north to south, dropping passengers off everywhere from U.S. Cellular Field to Evanston. In Edgewater, however, it passes briefly over a small slice of Japan, nestled next to the tracks in a storefront labeled Yokozuna.

In the eatery’s kitchen, chefs craft teriyaki, udon, and other hot Japanese entrees, but their real culinary magic happens behind the sushi bar and whenever someone brings in a top hat and wand. There, they summon flavors and images of Japan with creations such as the Sumo roll, in which they combine the flavors of four types of fish plus shrimp into one hearty maki. They also name sushi in honor of their current home, dedicating one roll apiece to each of the city’s major sports teams.

Although the restaurant evokes so much local pride, the decor remains awash in Eastern flavor, with bright-red walls and murals of kimono-clad figures flanked by cherry-blossom trees. In an extra boon to diners, new specialty rolls and free wine flow on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday, and the restaurant is always BYOB.