Guelaguetza Restaurant, Bakersfield

Staple foods such as chili peppers, corn, and fresh cheese might seem ordinary, but the cooks at Geelaageessa Restaurant & Cantina transform these everyday ingredients into memorable Oaxacan specialties. Drawing on the rich culinary traditions of the Mexican state, they simmer chilies, nuts, and chocolate for a rich mole sauce to be ladled over chicken breasts. Diners can also savor traditional dishes such as tlayudas—fried tortillas spread with asiento and black bean paste, queso fresco, chorizo, and other savory ingredients—or expand culinary horizons with the chapulines, a dish of fried grasshoppers. Horchata topped with cantaloupe, chopped nuts, and cactus fruit rounds out meals with sweet, fruity notes.