Popei's Clam Bar & Seafood, Bethpage

To the chefs at Popei's Clam Bar & Seafood Restaurant, there is not one correct way to prepare seafood. That’s why the team of culinary inventors likes to experiment, creating dishes from the more standard blackened Cajun swordfish to the avant-garde buffalo and thai calamari. The nightly all-you-can-eat dinners feature one seafood option per night, and satiate even diners with five stomachs. Beyond seafood dishes—including the house’s fresh little-neck clams and lobster stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab, and feta cheese—the chefs sizzle up an array of meaty creations. Their half-pound burgers support a variety of hearty toppings, and baby back ribs and veal parmigiana showcase the chefs’ ability to handle meat better than a conflict-resolution expert who specializes in farm-animal relationships.