Kui Korean BBQ, Columbia

Chef John Lee lords over a traditional barbecue grill at KUI Korean BBQ, his face illuminated by flames rising up from the oak-wood charcoal. Gingerly, he sizzles thin slices of tender bulgogi beef, plump galbi short ribs, and strips of spicy chicken. He then assembles the smoky meats on beds of rice alongside nests of carrots, tufts of bean sprouts, and a bright-yellow fried egg. To craft authentic Korean gimbap, he folds rice, egg, pickled radish, and fish cake into a seaweed roll. As John labors in the kitchen, his wife bustles about the casual dining room, greeting customers, handing out glasses of fruity soju cocktails, and refereeing sporadic games of musical chairs.