Numero 28 Pizzeria Romana - Spring St, New York

The wooden tables at Numero 28 Pizzeria are more than rustic accoutrements—they're necessary, sturdy platforms for pizzas sold "al metro," or by the meter. These robust servings are traditional in Italy, as is the practice of roasting pies in a brick oven to infuse them with smoky flavor. Before their fiery finish, however, each disk is meticulously prepped from recipes that were penned five generations ago. These instructions dictate how a seasoned pizzaioli should raise the dough, array a sprinkling of fresh toppings, and time the bake so the crust has the ideal thickness and texture.

The resulting pies form the sauce-slathered foundation of Numero 28's menu. They range from proven classics such as the margherita and the Rustica—decorated in sausage and green peppers—to inventive specialties. The Pere is one of many white pizzas that forgo tomato sauce, opting for toppings of pears, gorgonzola, and walnuts. Diners can also divvy up the Romeo for bites of artichoke, truffle cream, prosciutto, and buffalo mozzarella, so named for the buffalo that churn it with their hooves. Otherwise, the pizzeria serves up plates of pasta in housemade sauces, layering béchamel between layers of lasagna and dressing linguine noodles in savory pesto.