Gajalee, San Francisco

Extraordinary seafood isn’t necessarily the first thing that comes to mind when you think about the cuisine of India. But Gajalee in the Mission emphasizes the saltwater delicacies from coastal states like Kerala and Goa, and unlike the usual gut-bomber Indian fare, this particular restaurant is refined – ethereal, even. You won’t find naan here, only paratha and chapati, but that’s sort of the point. Yellow-walled, trimmed with wood accents, Gajalee’s walls are lined with Indian art and its ceiling is painted with mesmerizing blue whirlpools. When the gastronomic avant-garde leaves the stomach wanting more, turn to homestyle food from the subcontinent that’s been comforting people for hundreds of years.