Kenro's, Roseville

When sushi chef Kenro-San moved to America in the 1970s, he toted along his sushi-rolling acumen and a veteran's flair for traditional Japanese delicacies. Now, behind a marble, L-shaped sushi bar, his agile hands interlace yellowtail, unagi, and Spanish mackerel with crunchy cucumbers and avocados, creating fresh nigiri and robust maki rolls. The dining room's suspended lamps cast light upon Japanese figurines and paintings, and illuminate Kenro-San's thinly sliced beef dishes, crispy tempuras, and soba-noodle soups, the latter of which are comforting enough to console an uprooted weeping willow.