Café Dufrain prides itself on its knowledgeable serving staff, which knows the fresh, local food-filled menu better than it knows itself. A server might recommend the Kurobuto pork cheeks to start, paired nicely as they are with fried green tomatoes and smoked-bacon marmalade ($7.50), or the warm confit of organic mushrooms with roasted black-garlic cloves on a grilled baguette ($8). The organic smart chicken is apparently not so smart, as it finds itself fried and accompanied with buttermilk waffles ($20). The hot-and-sour noodles with lotus root and white miso ($18) provide culinary shelter for vegetarians. Finish this gourmet spread with a slice of carrot cake with cream-cheese frosting ($7) or a pineapple right-side-up cake ($7). The staff would be happy to match your meal with any of the custom-tailored American, European, and South American vintages on the expansive wine menu.