Mylapore, Roseville

Chefs dunk their ladles into an array of batters—one composed of ground rice and lentils, one blended from semolina and wheat, and another made from broken wheat and rice flour. Once spread upon the grill, these cook into a crepe called a dosa, which comes with chutney made from coconut grated fresh every hour. These dosas and other vegetarian dishes explore the lightness, spiciness, and breadth of flavors found in South Indian cuisine.

Mylapore—named after a neighborhood in Chennai—keeps the spirit of local eating at heart by eschewing frozen vegetables in favor of fresh produce from nearby farmers' markets. Also, beyond the individual South Indian dishes, guests can experience family-style thali dining, which changes regularly based on what's in season. The chefs, meanwhile, insist on doing as much as possible by hand, from pickling to sun drying herbs to relaying orders with finger puppets.