Whether it's a balmy afternoon in June or a posttheater food hunt in the wee hours of an icy December morning, the chefs at Maison stand ready to fuel New Yorkers with a taste of Brittany. Led by executive chef Mario Urgiles, the restaurant is open seven days a week around the clock, serving plates of the fish, shellfish, and crepes that you might find along the French coast. Diners can take in the interior's welcoming ambiance, admiring the abundance of natural light reflected in the mirrors along the bar and sipping varietals retrieved from the balcony wine room overhead. The warmth of its plush red drapery and red leather banquettes pairs well with orders of provençale mussels steamed with white wine and herbs or ratatouille-and-goat-cheese crepes. Fresh fruits de mer including oysters, lobster tails, and jumbo shrimp might best be enjoyed in the patio area. Its large, climate-controlled umbrella and white beams dotted with light bulbs resemble an amusement-park carousel, or the Parisian Tilt-A-Whirl where Hemingway did most of his writing.