Mission: Renaissance, Los Angeles

Sushi Hirosuke’s seasoned chefs whisk taste buds to uncharted territories with a menu of traditional Japanese plates and more than 50 sushi rolls of varying sizes and complexities. Tempura flakes erupt from the seaweed-paper surface of the shrimp tempura roll as lava-like streams of spicy mayo and eel sauce run down its surface toward waiting plates and scale models of Pompeii. Chopsticks pencil-dive into Japanese plates such as chicken teriyaki, and jugs of hot sake grace tables in varieties such as Ozeki dry, Hakutsuru, and unfiltered nigori. Chefs slice and dice creations into existence at an intimate bar, preparing rolls with Model T–like efficiency and F-150–like thickness before diners’ approving eyes.