Restaurants in Ridgewood

The saying “less is more” has perhaps never been truer than it is at Porchetta (110 E. 7th St.) and Porsena (21 E. 7th St.). At both East Village hot spots, Chef Sara Jenkins has built a cult following by keeping her menus tightly focused rather than trying to do it all. Crowds gather at Porchetta to savor one specific thing: slow-roasted pork (served in varying ways yet always the central focus of each dish). At Porsena, they come for perfectly cooked artisanal pasta. Jenkins’s straightforward approach reflects a distinctly Italian state of mind, which makes sense, considering her upbringing around Tuscany and Rome. Mario Batali summed it up succinctly when he called her “one of the few chefs in America who understands Italy and how Italians eat." “I think Italians in Italy eat with a certain fairness that Americans and Italian-Americans don’t have,” Jenkins said, asked about what prompted Batali’s praise. “An Italian is perfectly happy with a perfectly cooked artisanal spaghetti with great olive oil and chilies, while an American would want to add three or four [more] ingredients.” When Jenkins isn’t working in her own kitchens, she can often be found exploring other rich, delicious, and straightforward flavors around the city. Here are a few of her favorites. For Italian (outside of Porsena): “I eat at Cesare Casella’s place on the West Side, Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto (283 Amsterdam Ave.). He’s a Tuscan chef who’s been working in New York for many more years than I have. He’s very authentic.” For gelato: “Il laboratio del gelato (188 Ludlow St.). They have traditional and nontraditional flavors.” For espresso: “Abraço Espresso (86 E. 7th St.) on 7th Street. They are maniacal about making it right.” For wine or cocktails: “I like to drink wine at Bar Veloce (175 2nd Ave.) on 2nd Avenue. It’s an Italian wine bar that’s been there more than 10 years. It’s not over the top, not pretentious or precious. Just a great wine selection in a nice space.” Check Groupon for deals on Italian restaurants in New York City.

You can’t rush perfection, but you can wash it down correctly. The DeMarco family explains why you won’t mind waiting for a slice at Di Fara Pizza and what you should bring to drink. Worth the Wait Dom DeMarco isn’t big on advertising. Probably because he doesn’t need it. Dom—owner, founder, and sole chef at Di Fara Pizza—knows he’ll have a crowd to feed no matter what. The masses waiting in line outside Di Fara’s modest storefront, next door to a 99-cent shop in Brooklyn, are evidence of that. So is the fact that they’re waiting for the chance to hand over $5 for a piece of pizza. Five bucks might seem a bit much for a single slice, but these devotees clearly don’t mind. Even Mayor Bloomberg weighed in on the discussion. “If you’ve ever had a really great slice of pizza,” he told the New York Times, “you know there are worse deals.” But the food at Di Fara doesn’t really need mayoral endorsements. Margaret DeMarco, Di Fara’s manager and Dom’s daughter, explained why the pies are their own best advertisement: “[The] pizzas are made with two cheeses and fresh, snipped basil and a drizzle of olive oil. The square is a slightly thicker crust, twice-baked, made with a richer sauce, and is a much heartier choice. The round is quite delicate in texture. We're famous for both." Margaret has worked alongside her father for more than 20 years now, and like the rest of her six siblings, she has, not surprisingly, developed cooking skills that she calls a “special art.” But dad is still in charge of all the cooking, and will be “as long as he has the strength and the desire.” He was born in Italy’s Provincia di Caserta, and he uses all imported ingredients for his pies—from the buffalo mozzarella cheese brought from Italy to the basil from Israel. While You Wait (and While You Eat): Take Advantage of Di Fara’s BYOB Option You won’t see mention of it on Di Fara’s website, but the pizzeria is also BYOB. In 2011, the Village Voice named Di Fara one of its 10 Best BYOB Restaurants in the city, encouraging guests to “uncork your best bottle of red and indulge in a marriage of gastronomic perfection." Margaret said that since the Village Voice article, they’ve noticed a lot of customers opting to bring along something to drink in the evenings. “Wine is usually the choice for most, but beer is also brought in,” she said. Margaret’s most important pairing recommendation for those settling in at one of the eatery’s coveted 19 seats? Try a slice of both the round pie and the square pie for the sake of comparison. After that wait, you’ve probably earned it. What Booze to Bring Serious Eats says: Czech Krušovice beer “Krušovice, with its sweet, almost caramel flavor, is a dark (basically black) beer, that's hardly found in the States … A cold Krušovice with a hot, olive oily, basily Di Fara's slice, is my idea of each food group at its best,” said writer Erin Zimmer, who suggests picking it up at Associated Supermarket directly across the street. Gothamist says: Italian red wines “Bring a bottle of chianti or a barbera.”

Cutie Pies NYC is a one-woman show. “I do just about everything except churn the butter right now,” says Alice Cronin, the baker behind the Brooklyn-based confectionery. Cronin has been familiar with the ways of the oven since age 5, when she mastered her grandmother’s chocolate-chip cookie recipe. Since then, however, she’s moved on to more sophisticated desserts, having honed her skills while maintaining the cookbook section of a Montclair, New Jersey, bookstore. Working to a soundtrack of Cibo Matto, Los Amigos Invisibles, and fittingly, Cake, she now rolls cream-cheese rugelachs, laces peach pies with thyme, and gels vegan cream pies using agar. Of all the desserts that she makes, Cronin’s favorite is her coconut cream pie. She’s not alone: the dairy-rich dessert took home first place at the City Reliquary’s pie contest in 2011. “I’m not sure if it has anything to do with nostalgia—I watched loads of Gilligan's Island reruns when I was little—or the way it riffs on the rich, steeped-in-diner-chic desserts that harken back to old-school decadence,” she says of her fondness for coconut flavor. “It tastes rich and creamy, but the texture is surprisingly light.” Cronin crafts myriad variations on sweet and buttery flavors, and she experiments with savory elements, too. Soon, she’s set to unveil a savory guacamole and corn-nut-crust pielette. Taste Cronin’s gourmet baked goods for yourself by placing a custom order, or look for her at these New York City markets: Smorgasburg Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. in East River State Park at N. 7th St. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the Tobacco Warehouse at 30 Water St. Bust Magazine Craftacular and Food Fair Saturday, May 4, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the Pearl Street Plaza (Pearl Street at Water Street)